Lost on Prince Edward Island: An Unforgettable Culinary Journey at the PEI International Shellfish Festival
As the plane transcends through the waters of the Northumberland Strait, my heart swells with a familiar longing – a feeling I've carried since childhood, nurtured by countless hours spent lost in the world of Anne Shirley. I can still hear Megan Follows' voice, her Anne with an "e" igniting my imagination and painting Prince Edward Island in hues of rust-red soil and endless green fields. The island has lured me back for the third time, this time for the PEI Shellfish Festival – a shell-ebration that marries the island's bountiful waters with its warm-hearted hospitality. As I look out the window of the plane, I can almost taste the briny sweetness of freshly shucked oysters. Prince Edward Island, my almost-Avonlea, beckons once again, ready to write a new chapter in an ongoing love story that began long ago, in the glow of a television screen and the pages of a beloved book. Come get lost with me!
Day 1: A Flight into Shellfish Culture and a Welcome Dinner
On the plane, the cabin buzzed with an infectious energy. My journey to Prince Edward Island had begun with an unexpected twist – a flight cancellation that reshuffled our first-day plans. But now, finally airborne, I found myself immersed in a world of shellfish enthusiasm before even touching PEI soil. Within minutes, I realised our flight was a veritable who's who of the shellfish world: chefs, shuckers, and enthusiasts, their excited chatter filling the air.
Fate seated me next to a mussel harvester named Bobby from Atlantic Harvest Farm. Eyes alight with passion, he pulled out his phone to share videos of the fascinating mussel cultivation process. I learned that it involves "socks" – long mesh tubes filled with mussel seeds (young mussels) that are suspended in the nutrient-rich waters. Over time, these seeds grow into plump, delicious mussels ready for harvest.
Bobby showing me videos on his phone!
As we touched down at YYG, the atmosphere was electric. Chefs greeted each other warmly, shuckers compared techniques, and festival-goers chatted excitedly about the days ahead. In just a short flight, I had been transported into the heart of PEI's shellfish culture – and the adventure was only beginning.
I'm thrilled to be here in partnership with the Prince Edward Island International Shellfish Festival, in collaboration with Discover Charlottetown, Tourism PEI, and PEI Seafood to get an insider's look at this seafood extravaganza and share the island's maritime charm. But I'm not alone on this journey – I'm joined by an amazing crew of fellow content creators: Solmaz, Rebecca, Kaley, and the talented food & travel writer and chef, Amy. From the moment we met, it was like old friends reuniting, bonding over our shared love for food and adventure.
After checking into Fairholm Boutique Inns—an 1838 architectural gem and our home for the next few days—we found ourselves at the Sea Rocket Oyster House for a welcome dinner that set the bar impossibly high for the days to come. Platters of glistening oysters, each a unique testament to PEI’s pristine waters, were accompanied by wines that beautifully expressed the terroir. With each briny morsel, I couldn’t help but feel I was tasting the very essence of the island itself.
Fairholm Boutique Inns is a National Historic Site located in the heart of downtown Charlottetown.
Day 2: A Deep Dive into PEI's Culinary Treasures
As dawn broke over Charlottetown, our group of content creators joined the competing chefs for an island food tour. We hit the ground running and headed about 45 minutes out of town for breakfast at The HandPie Co. There, buttery, flaky pies filled with local ingredients provided the perfect fuel for our food expedition. My breakfast hand pie was filled with delicious local maple sausage, maple baked beans, and cheddar cheese scrambled eggs. It was fantastic, and I can only imagine how delicious their wide array of selections must be. As we savoured our meals, the excitement built for the adventures ahead, where we'd be exploring some of the festival's star ingredients alongside the festival's talented chefs.
The breakfast hand pie
What followed was nothing short of a culinary odyssey across the island.
The oyster experience brought us to Raspberry Point Oysters where we enjoyed an oyster tasting right on a boat and had our hand in shucking. From sweet and buttery to bracingly mineral, each oyster was a tiny, perfect encapsulation of its home waters.
The group on the oyster boat at Raspberry Point Oysters
A foraging talk with expert Nick Chindamo opened my eyes to the bounty hidden in plain site. Who knew that unassuming local plants—some available only for brief periods—could mimic familiar flavours and elevate a dish from great to unforgettable?
Nick Chindamo
The mussel experience was a revelation. Watching these bivalve beauties pulled from the water and cooked to perfection in a microwave just minutes later has ruined me for all future mussel dishes. I should mention that, while the microwave isn’t the preferred cooking method, it was used for convenience and speed since we were on a boat.
And let’s not forget the humble spud. This potato experience elevated the kitchen staple to rock star status, proving why P.E.I. is home to some of the finest potatoes. We even had the chance to dig some up ourselves and learn about the harvesting process.
As the day waned, we arrived at the pièce de résistance: the Feast and Frolic dinner, complete with an all-you-can-slurp oyster bar. The star of the show was the lobster, presented by our new chef friends—each guest enjoying a whole lobster, accompanied by braised island beef chuck. It was a true celebration of land and sea that left me giddy and grateful for PEI’s incredible food.
The Feast & Frolic Menu
Day 3: Lobsters and Competitions
After a leisurely breakfast that allowed us to shake off the excesses of the previous night, we embarked on The Fiddling Fisherman's Lobster Lover's Tour. The salty breeze whipped through our hair as we chugged out into the bay, our anticipation palpable. Watching our captain haul in a lobster trap was like witnessing a time-honoured dance between man and sea, a ballet of strength and skill honed over generations.
The crescendo of our maritime morning was a lobster boil right on the boat. Our captain, a master of his craft, had his own meticulous process for creating the perfect lobster. He used seawater to boil the crustaceans, and once cooked, he placed them in a strainer, dipping them into the ocean several times to halt the cooking process. This technique yielded succulent meat infused with the essence of the sea. As we feasted, our multi talented captain serenaded us with his fiddle, transforming our boat into a floating celebration where we danced and laughed the afternoon away.
The day shifted gears as we dove into the frenetic energy of the PEI International Shellfish Festival. The air crackled with excitement as we witnessed culinary gladiators battle it out in the Garland Canada International Chef Challenge. Knives flashed, pans sizzled, and the aromas were intoxicating!
As night fell, the festival transformed into a lively party. Live bands played hit after hit, their music pulsing through the crowd. Bars served an array of drinks, from beers to the mighty Canadian caesar. The dance floor became a sea of moving bodies, with locals and visitors alike swept up in the infectious joy of the celebration. It was a fitting end to a day that had taken us from the tranquil waters of the bay to the heart of PEI's vibrant culinary scene.
Day 4: Island Exploration and Culinary Competitions
Our penultimate day provided perfect conditions for exploring more of PEI's natural beauty. We fueled up with a breakfast at Prince Edward Island Preserve Co., where we enjoyed an array of mouthwatering dishes from crab cakes to a delicious potato pie.
The morning's highlight for me was our oyster experience at Brackley Bay Oyster Co. As we learned about the historical practice of shipping these prized mollusks internationally in wooden barrels, I gained a newfound respect for these briny delicacies and the dedicated individuals who bring them from sea to table. The revelation of their journey through time and tide added layers of appreciation to each slurp.
Our scenic drive to Prince Edward Island National Park unfolded as a feast for the senses. The rugged beauty of Brackley Beach, with its windswept dunes stretching towards an endless horizon, provided a moment of tranquil reflection and a canvas for breathtaking photographs.
Standing proud against the blue sky, the iconic Covehead Lighthouse served as the perfect backdrop, embodying the very essence of maritime life in our snapshots.
It was here, in this postcard-perfect setting, that we indulged in what unanimously became our favourite lobster roll of the trip, courtesy of Richard's Seafood. The roll was a masterpiece of simplicity: generously portioned, meaty lobster, kissed with just the right amount of light mayo and a whisper of lemon. Superb hardly does it justice; it was a taste of PEI's waters in every bite.
Back at the festival grounds, the culinary competitions reached a fever pitch. The International Chef Challenge semi-finals showcased a level of culinary creativity that left us all in awe. We watched, mesmerized, as chefs transformed humble island ingredients into dishes worthy of Michelin stars, each plate a work of art.
Our journey culminated in a farewell dinner at Claddagh Oyster House that can only be described as magical. As we savoured our final tastes of PEI – from perfectly seared scallops, to show-stopping jerk-spiced crab legs that danced with flavor, and yes, more incredible oysters that captured the island's terroir – I couldn't help but feel a bittersweet pang. This island, with its warm-hearted people, rich culinary traditions, and incredible flavours, had once again worked its way into my soul.
Day 5: Final Flavours and Fond Farewells
Our last day began on a high note with breakfast at Slaymaker & Nichols Gastro House. Their Secret Garden cocktail proved to be a standout, earning the title of my favourite libation on the island. The perfectly crafted sunrise breakfast burger not only satisfied my palate but also served as a welcome remedy for the previous evening's indulgences.
A walking tour of downtown Charlottetown followed, its Victorian architecture and quaint shops a charming counterpoint to the culinary adventures we'd been having. Each step on the brick sidewalks of Victoria Row felt like a step back in time, the town's rich history palpable in the salt-tinged air.
Our final hours at the festival grounds were a whirlwind of excitement. The Chef Challenge finals were a spectacular display of culinary prowess, with chefs pushing the boundaries of what's possible with PEI's bounty. Watching young aspiring chefs participating in the Junior Chef Challenge filled me with hope for the future of PEI's culinary scene.
As I boarded my flight home, my palate still tingling with the memory of my last PEI oyster, I couldn't help but reflect on this incredible journey. This third visit to Prince Edward Island, centered around the International Shellfish Festival, wasn't just a trip – it was a transformative experience that deepened my appreciation for this magical place.
PEI, you've done it again. You've nourished my body with your incredible bounty, filled my heart with your warm hospitality, and captured my imagination with your timeless beauty. Until we meet again, I'll be dreaming of your shores, your flavours, and the next adventure that awaits on your red sand beaches.
